Quick answer: A safe DIY cat highway starts with a stud finder: mark every stud along the wall, confirm each with a small pilot hole, and plan shelves so every bracket screws into a stud. Space steps so your cat can climb without leaping, use brackets and screws rated well above a jumping cat's weight, and load-test each shelf before use.
A cat highway is a route of shelves, steps and perches across a wall that lets a cat travel around a room above the floor. The Ohio State Indoor Pet Initiative explains that cats like to be up high and that a perch gives them a safe place to watch from. A highway turns one perch into a whole route.
The difference between a highway that lasts and one that sags is what the brackets are fixed into. A cat landing on a shelf pushes down much harder than its weight standing still, so plasterboard fixings alone are not enough. This guide starts with the stud layout and builds the route around it.
Find and Mark Every Stud for the DIY Cat Highway
- Clear the wall and remove pictures and hooks.
- Calibrate the stud finder on a section of wall with no stud, following its instructions.
- Slide it slowly across the wall at several heights and mark each edge of every stud in pencil.
- Join the marks with a light vertical line using a level.
- Confirm each stud with a small pilot hole or a thin nail in a spot a bracket will later cover.
Stud finders can be fooled by pipes, wires and thick plaster. Check for cables and pipes with a detector before drilling, and avoid drilling directly above or below sockets and switches. If you are unsure what is behind the wall, ask an electrician or builder before you start.
Turn Stud Lines Into a Route
Photograph the wall with the stud lines marked, print it or open it on a tablet, and sketch shelves on top. Every bracket should land on a line. That often means shelves sit at slightly different spacing from what looks neat on paper; let the studs decide, not the ruler.
| Step in the route | What to check | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| First step from the floor or furniture | Easy reach from a sofa arm or table | Gives older and cautious cats a way on |
| Middle shelves | Each bracket on a stud | These take the most landings |
| Top perch | Two studs, deeper shelf | Cats rest here, so it holds the longest |
| Way down | A second route back to the floor | No cat should be stuck at the top |
Keep the spacing between shelves short enough that your cat can step or hop rather than leap. Watch how your cat uses existing furniture; the gaps it chooses at home are the best guide for an older cat, a kitten or a heavier cat.

Brackets and Screws Rated for Jumping Cats
Choose brackets and wood screws rated well above the weight of your heaviest cat, and check the rating printed on the packaging for each part. A shelf is only as strong as its weakest link: a heavy-duty bracket on short screws will still fail.
- Use at least two brackets per shelf, both on studs.
- Choose screws long enough to go well into the stud, not only through the plasterboard.
- Use a deeper shelf and a third bracket for the top perch.
- Avoid floating shelf hardware that hides the fixings, unless it is rated for the load.
If a stud is not where a step needs to be, mount a horizontal batten across two studs and fix the shelf to the batten instead. That spreads the load and gives you freedom over placement. Our stud finder layout for a window perch uses the same method for a single perch.
Load Test Before Any Cat Goes Up
- Press down hard on the front edge of each shelf with both hands.
- Hang a bag holding several times your cat's weight from the front edge for a few minutes.
- Check the brackets for movement and the wall for cracks around the screws.
- Push sideways on the shelf to check for wobble.
- Repeat on every shelf, including the last one fitted.
If anything moves, take the shelf down, find out why and fix it before trying again. Our guide on non-wobbly wall cat tree stability testing has more on how to test wall-mounted cat furniture.
Grip and Surfaces
Bare painted shelves are slippery. Cover the top of each shelf with carpet offcut, cork or a sisal mat fixed with screws from underneath or a pet-safe adhesive left to cure fully. Rounded front edges are kinder to cats landing and to people walking past.
Add a vertical sisal panel at the bottom of the route so cats can stretch and scratch before they climb. That also draws scratching away from nearby furniture.

Shelf Depth and Material
Choose solid timber or good-quality plywood rather than thin chipboard, which can sag and crumble around screws over time. Shelves deep enough for the cat to sit with all four paws on the surface feel safer to cats than narrow ledges, and the top perch should be deep enough to lie down on. Measure your cat lying stretched out and use that as the minimum for the resting shelf.
Seal cut edges and any bare timber with a water-based finish and let it cure fully, in a ventilated room, before fitting. A sealed surface wipes clean and resists the odd hairball or muddy paw.
Introducing Cats to the Highway
Put a few treats on the first two steps and let the cat discover them. Do not lift a cat onto the top shelf; cats that climb up on their own know how to get down. Over a few days, move treats higher. Many cats will start using the route as a shortcut once they trust it, especially if it leads to a window.
Keep a soft landing area clear below the route. Move glass ornaments, plants and anything sharp away from the wall, because even confident cats misjudge a step now and then.
Highway Loads When Two Cats Share It
In a home with several cats, give the highway at least two ways on and two ways off, so one cat cannot block another at the top. International Cat Care advises that cats need both high places and hiding places around the home. Shelves are the high places; a covered box or bed at floor level nearby gives a cat that wants to hide somewhere to go.
Wider shelves let two cats pass. Narrow steps work for one cat at a time, which is fine as long as there is a second route.
Monthly Highway Check
- Wiggle each shelf and bracket.
- Check screw heads for movement and tighten as needed.
- Look for cracks in plaster around fixings.
- Replace worn carpet or sisal on the shelf tops.
- Make sure nothing new, such as a plant or ornament, has appeared on the route.
If you are in a rented home and cannot drill, our no-drill window perch ideas covers options that still hold adult cats. The Ohio State Indoor Pet Initiative's guide to indoor cat needs covers the wider range of things cats need indoors beyond climbing.
Where to Go Next
For a smaller space, our cat highway with window perch in a small apartment shows how to fit a route into one wall. For a vertical tower fixed to the wall, see stud-safe wall cat tree build. All our shelf and perch builds are collected in the cat wall shelves and window perches hub, and freestanding options are in the DIY cat tree hub.
Cat Highway Stud FAQ
Can I fix cat shelves into plasterboard without studs?
It is not recommended for a highway. A cat landing on a shelf pushes down much harder than its standing weight, and plasterboard fixings can pull out. Fix every bracket into a stud, or mount a batten across two studs and attach the shelf to that, using hardware rated for the load.
What gap between highway shelves suits most cats?
Close enough that your cat can step or hop between them rather than leap. Watch which gaps your cat already chooses on furniture at home and plan around those. Older cats, kittens and heavier cats need shorter gaps. Let the stud positions decide exact spacing.
How do I test a cat shelf is safe?
Press hard on the front edge, then hang a bag weighing several times your cat's weight from it for a few minutes. Check for bracket movement, cracks around screws and sideways wobble. Fix anything that moves before a cat uses it, and repeat the check monthly.
Is a stud finder enough to drill safely?
Not on its own. Stud finders can be fooled by pipes, wires and thick plaster. Confirm each stud with a small pilot hole, check for cables and pipes with a detector before drilling, and avoid drilling above or below sockets and switches. Ask a professional if unsure.