Quick answer: Pick a long, low sideboard rather than a tall cupboard, remove the internal shelf and divider, and cut entrances in both ends so cats can enter and leave on either side. Seal every cut particleboard edge, open up the back for airflow, fit soft-close or locked doors for cleaning only, and still keep one box per cat plus one.
Flat-pack sideboards, TV benches and low cabinets are cheap, widely available and easy to cut, which makes them popular for hiding litter boxes. In a home with several cats, the conversion needs more thought: bigger interior space, two ways in and out, and a cabinet that copes with heavy daily use and cleaning.
This guide focuses on the practical conversion of flat-pack furniture. For airflow in depth, see the ventilated litter enclosure guide, and for the single-cat version, the IKEA cabinet litter enclosure guide.
Choosing the right cabinet
Width matters more than height. A sideboard or bench around 47 to 70 inches long can hold two boxes side by side or one extra-large box with plenty of room to turn. Tall cupboards are harder to ventilate and force cats into a cramped, enclosed space.
Look for a cabinet at least 18 inches deep inside and 20 inches high inside, so a large box fits with clearance above it. Measure the inside, not the outside dimensions, because panels and plinths take up space.
- Good: long, low sideboards; TV benches with open backs; wide shoe cabinets with removable shelves.
- Poor: narrow tall wardrobes; cabinets with fixed central dividers; units with glass doors.
Tools and materials for a multi-cat cabinet
- A suitable flat-pack cabinet, assembled or new in the box.
- Drill with a 10 mm bit for corner holes and a hole saw for vents.
- Jigsaw with a fine-tooth laminate blade, masking tape, pencil and ruler.
- Fine sandpaper, water-based sealer or paint, and edge banding or rubber U-channel.
- Waterproof tray or vinyl offcut for the floor.
- Child locks or magnetic catches, and optionally soft-close hinges.
If the cabinet is still flat-packed, cut the entrances in the end panels before assembly. Working on a panel lying flat on trestles is far easier and more accurate than cutting a standing cabinet.
Count boxes before you build
In a multi-cat home, aim for one litter box per cat plus one, in more than one location. A cabinet with two boxes still counts as a single location if a dominant cat controls access. The ASPCA on litter box problems highlights the number and placement of boxes as key factors.
So the cabinet is one part of the setup, not all of it. Plan where the other box or boxes will go.
Removing shelves and dividers
Most flat-pack cabinets have a middle shelf on pegs and sometimes a fixed vertical divider held with cam locks. Remove the shelf. If there is a fixed divider, you can either take it out and reinforce the top with a batten underneath, or keep it and use it as a separator between two boxes, with an entrance on each end.
Do not remove structural back panels without adding a replacement brace, as some cabinets rely on the back to stay square.
Cutting entrances in particleboard
Mark an opening on each end panel at least 8 inches wide and 9 inches high, with rounded corners. The bottom edge should be 3 to 5 inches above the cabinet floor to hold litter in, but low enough for older cats to step over.
Drill a hole in each corner, then cut between them with a fine-tooth jigsaw blade, using masking tape over the cut line to reduce chipping of the laminate. Sand edges smooth.
Reinforcing a cabinet after cutting
Removing a shelf and cutting two large holes weakens a light flat-pack carcass. Cats will often jump onto the top, so check that it does not flex. Screw a batten along the underside of the top, from end to end, and add small corner blocks where the end panels meet the top.
If the back panel was removed for airflow, fix a diagonal strip or two corner braces across the back to keep the cabinet square. A cabinet that racks will eventually pop its cam locks and doors will stop closing properly.
Fix the cabinet to the wall with the anti-tip strap supplied by the maker. Cats jumping on and off the top of a cabinet that holds two heavy boxes on one side can make it lean.
Sealing the cut edges
Particleboard soaks up moisture through cut edges and swells, especially near litter boxes. Seal every cut edge with two coats of water-based sealer, paint or edge banding. Let it cure fully and air the cabinet before your cats use it. The EPA on VOCs and indoor air explains why low-VOC finishes matter in a closed space.
An edge trim or rubber U-channel on the entrance holes protects against chipping and gives a neat finish.
Airflow for several cats
With more cats using the box, odour and ammonia build up faster inside a closed cabinet. The simplest fix in a flat-pack unit is to remove or cut away part of the thin back panel and pull the cabinet 2 inches from the wall. The two side entrances act as intakes.
Add a row of holes high on the back if the back must stay. A small quiet exhaust fan is an option for busy enclosures. Never use ozone generators or ionizers inside. The EPA on ozone-generating air cleaners explains why.
Door safety and cleaning access
Front doors are for your access only. A cat inside must never be shut in. Fit magnetic catches or child locks so doors stay closed except when you clean, and consider soft-close hinges so they cannot slam. Glass or mirror doors should be avoided.
Make sure you can reach every corner for scooping and wiping. A box on a tray that slides out makes cleaning much faster.
Where to put it in the home
Choose a quiet room with space around both ends of the cabinet so cats can leave either way. Avoid tight alcoves where one entrance faces a wall. Keep it away from food and water bowls and from noisy machines such as washing machines. Placement guidance and apartment litter odour fixes help with location and smell.
Lining the floor
Line the cabinet floor with a waterproof tray, a cut piece of vinyl flooring or a washable mat that runs a few inches up the sides. This protects the particleboard from urine and spilled litter. Replace or clean it regularly.
Signs a cat is unhappy with the cabinet
Watch each cat, not just the group. Warning signs include peeing or pooping right next to the cabinet, hovering at an entrance then walking away, using the box only when the cabinet doors are open, or one cat sitting on top of the cabinet watching the entrances. That last one often means a cat is guarding the box.
Any sudden change in litter habits, straining, or frequent small visits should go to the vet first, as urinary problems can be urgent, particularly in male cats. Once health is ruled out, adjust the setup rather than the cat.
Introducing the cabinet to several cats
Leave the doors open and the boxes visible at first. Put the cabinet where one of the existing boxes was, keep the old box nearby for a week, and watch which cats use the new setup. Some cats accept enclosed boxes; others never do.
If any cat avoids it, keep an open box available. International Cat Care on multi-cat households explains how competition for resources causes stress.
Cleaning two or more boxes in one cabinet
Scoop at least twice daily. Wipe the cabinet floor and entrance edges weekly, and fully wash boxes every one to two weeks. Check sealed edges for swelling and touch them up as needed. The enclosure cleaning routine guide has a detailed checklist.
Styling it as furniture
Replace the handles, add a top runner, or put a plant or lamp on top to make it look like ordinary furniture. Keep anything heavy or breakable off the top if cats jump onto it. The aesthetic hidden litter box guide has design ideas.
IKEA cabinet litter enclosure for multiple cats: FAQs
What IKEA cabinet works best for a litter box?
A long, low sideboard or TV bench is the easiest starting point, because its width can hold one large box with turning room or two boxes side by side. Check the inside depth and height before buying, not the outer size, and choose solid side panels you can cut cleanly. Tall wardrobes and narrow nightstands rarely suit several cats.
Should the enclosure have two entrances?
Yes. In a multi-cat home, a single opening lets one cat wait outside and corner another while it is using the box. A second entrance on the opposite end or side gives the cat inside an escape route, which keeps it relaxed and makes it far less likely to start avoiding the cabinet and soiling somewhere else.
How do I stop particleboard from swelling?
Particleboard swells when urine or cleaning water soaks into raw cut edges. Sand every opening you cut, then seal the edges and the inside floor with two coats of water-based polyurethane and let it cure fully. Stand the boxes on a waterproof tray with a lip, so overspill from several cats never reaches the board.
Can two cats share one cabinet?
Some cats will share, but cats treat one cabinet as one location even if it holds two boxes. Follow the one-box-per-cat-plus-one rule and place at least one box in a different room, so a cat who is blocked or bullied at the cabinet always has another toilet it can reach without passing its rival.
Do I need ventilation?
Yes. Several cats produce more ammonia than a closed cabinet can clear on its own. Remove or cut open the back panel, leave a gap of a few inches between the cabinet and the wall, and add vents high on the sides. If the smell lingers despite daily scooping, a quiet USB fan pushing air outward helps.
