Quick answer: To make an apartment cat tree that looks like furniture, start with a sturdy flat-pack shelving unit or cabinet, add removable pads to selected shelves, fix sisal panels to one side for scratching, cut smooth entry holes only where needed, and anchor the unit to a wall stud. Choose open, staggered shelves so cats can climb while books and plants fill the rest.
Apartments rarely have room for a large cat tree, and most cat trees do not match the rest of the furniture. Flat-pack shelving solves both problems. It is designed to fit small rooms, it already looks like furniture, and with a few changes it becomes a climbing structure that both you and your cat use.
This guide focuses on small homes. The original approach is in our IKEA hack cat tree guide, and the apartment footprint challenge is covered in cat trees under 2 sq ft.
Everything here uses ordinary tools: a drill, a jigsaw for any holes, a sanding block and scissors for the pads. The changes are reversible, so the unit can go back to being a plain bookcase if you move or your needs change.
Choosing a unit that works
- Solid side panels and a fixed back or cross-bracing for rigidity
- Shelf depth of at least 30 cm so a cat can sit comfortably
- Shelves that can be fixed, not only rested on pegs
- A height that reaches a window or good view in your room
- A finish you are happy to see every day
Avoid tall narrow units with loose shelves; they flex and rattle when a cat jumps. Cube-style units and low wide bookcases are often the easiest to adapt.
Why shelving beats a cat tree in small homes
A conventional cat tree takes up floor space for a single purpose. In an apartment, every piece of furniture needs to earn its place, and a shelving unit already does a job: it stores books, plants and boxes. Turning part of it into a climbing route means the cat gets vertical territory without you giving up floor area. It also tends to be more stable than a lightweight cat tree, because flat-pack units are designed to carry books and are made to be fixed to the wall.
Height is the main benefit. Cats in small homes often lack places to retreat, watch and rest above the floor. The AAFP/ISFM Environmental Needs Guidelines describe elevated resting places as a basic need, and a shelving route gives several of them in one footprint.
Planning the climbing route
Cats climb best when each step is a short, comfortable jump. Plan a route up the unit using every second shelf or alternating left and right compartments, so a cat can move up in jumps of 30 to 45 cm. Leave the other shelves for books, plants and storage. A cat route through mixed shelving looks natural and keeps the unit useful for you.
Adding scratching surfaces
Fix a sisal panel to one outer side of the unit, or to the back of a compartment the cat passes through. Use a plywood board wrapped in sisal rope or covered in sisal fabric, screwed to the unit from inside. A scratching surface on the side facing the room gives cats an obvious place to mark and keeps them away from the sofa. Our sisal guide covers rope versus fabric.
Pads and grip
Flat-pack shelves are smooth and can be slippery. Add pads to the shelves on the cat route: wool felt, cork or canvas cushions cut to size. Fix them with removable hook-and-loop strips so you can wash them and so nothing damages the shelf if you change the layout. A cat that feels secure is much more likely to use high shelves.
Cutting entry holes neatly
Some designs add holes so cats can pass between compartments. Keep holes to a minimum and only cut where the panel is solid wood or thick board. Mark a circle of about 20 cm, drill a starter hole, cut with a jigsaw and sand the edge until it is completely smooth. Seal the cut edge so it does not absorb moisture. Never cut into structural panels or the back if it provides bracing.
Anchoring is essential
Shelving units are designed to be fixed to the wall, and with cats it is not optional. A cat landing on a top shelf pushes sideways with real force. Use the anchor kit supplied, or a stronger bracket, into a wall stud. The CPSC Anchor It campaign explains furniture tip-over risks. If you rent, ask your landlord; most accept a small fixing, and our cat tree hub covers alternatives.
Small-space layouts
In a studio or small living room, place the unit near a window so the top shelf becomes a lookout. A low wide unit under a window can act as a bench, storage and cat perch. A tall narrow unit beside the sofa can double as a side table at the bottom and a climbing tower above. Our small-space furniture guide has more layouts.
Keeping it looking like furniture
Use pads in neutral colours that match your textiles. Keep cat toys in a basket on one shelf rather than scattered. Style the non-cat shelves with books and plants, keeping breakables well away from the cat route. A tidy unit with a few cushions reads as a bookcase that a cat happens to use. See cat furniture that does not look like cat furniture for more styling ideas.
Safety checks
Check that every shelf on the cat route is fixed, not only resting on pegs. Push the top sideways after anchoring; nothing should move. Avoid hanging cords or loose fabric that could tangle a cat. Make sure plants on the shelves are safe for cats; the ASPCA list of toxic and non-toxic plants is a useful reference. Check fixings monthly.
A step-by-step weekend plan
On day one, assemble the unit, decide the cat route and fix every shelf on that route with screws or the unit's locking hardware rather than loose pegs. Anchor the unit to a wall stud before anything else goes on it. Cut and fit the sisal panel, screwing it on from the inside so no fixings show on the visible face.
On day two, cut pads to size, attach them with hook-and-loop strips and style the remaining shelves. Put a few treats on the lowest cat shelf and a favourite blanket on the top one. Most cats explore within a day. If your cat hesitates, use a wand toy to lead it up one level at a time and reward each step.
Adapting for older cats and kittens
Older cats appreciate shorter jumps, so use every shelf on the route rather than every second one, and add a sturdy step stool or ottoman in front of the unit as the first level. VCA on arthritis in cats explains signs that jumping has become uncomfortable. Kittens climb enthusiastically but can fall, so start with lower shelves only and add height as they grow. Keep the top shelf empty of breakables while a kitten is learning.
Combining with a wall scratcher
If the sofa is the cat's favourite scratching spot, put the shelving unit beside the sofa with the sisal side facing the arm. The cat then has a vertical scratcher exactly where it wants to scratch, plus a climbing route straight up. This combination often solves sofa scratching and climbing on kitchen counters at the same time, because the cat has a better place to be high up.
Cost compared with a cat tree
A shelving hack often costs similar to a mid-range cat tree but gives you storage as well, which matters in a small flat. It also keeps its value if you change your mind; remove the pads and sisal and it is a bookcase again. Our cost per year comparison helps weigh the options.
FAQ: IKEA Hack Cat Tree for Apartments
Which type of shelving works best?
Sturdy units with solid sides, fixed shelves and a back or bracing, at least 30 cm deep.
Do I need to anchor it?
Yes. Cats jumping onto high shelves can tip unanchored units.
Can I undo the hack later?
Yes, if you use removable pads and screw sisal panels on from inside.
Will cats use shelves instead of a cat tree?
Many prefer them, especially when shelves lead to a window or high view.
Is it renter-friendly?
Mostly. Ask your landlord about the wall anchor and avoid cutting holes in panels you might want to reuse.
How deep should the shelves be for an adult cat?
At least 30 cm, and ideally 35 to 40 cm for large cats, so the cat can sit, turn and lie down without hanging over the edge.
